This show review was translated from Danish to English by Graham Addinall.
LÆS DEN DANSKE UDGAVE HER
OpéraSport, Wednesday, January 30, 2024 at 11.00, The Royal Danish Opera
OpéraSport is all about contrasts. In the name alone, which suggests a mix of refinement and activity, you already get a clue to the brand’s DNA. Today they had – quite obviously – been invited to do a show at The Royal Danish Opera, and with that, it could somehow go either way. Would they emphasize the ‘Opéra’ part and dazzle even more in the building’s beautiful foyer? Or would they emphasize the contrast and present an even sportier collection? They ended up somewhere in the middle, where the contrasts worked together in the signature style that Awa Malina and Stephanie Gundelach have now finally established for the brand.
And this signature style is, among other things, composed of fabrics such as recycled silk and wool, and bio-leather, narrow silhouettes with a lot of fine gathered bands, ties, and often asymmetrical details. The clothes are simple but still feature decorative details, so they don’t appear boring or like something you can get from a hundred other brands. It was feminine and updated, and it became clear that we still have not seen the last of the fabric roses that have marked the necks, bags, shoes, and lives of many fashion influencers for the past year – at least not if OpéraSport have a say in the matter.
At first glance, the collection could almost look like one for summer with a white dress, light, printed silk skirt, sailor striped polo shirt, and a cream coloured, patterned quilted jacket. Actually, it was very lovely and carefree, and since Scandinavian fashion can also be built from layer upon layer, it is really nice to see pieces that can be used all year round – and to make sure that the things we invest in, we use for a long time and for all seasons.
For the icy wind that prevails these days, OpéraSport has also provided a nice warm, thick, and windproof outer layer. It came in the form of a long, black, quilted leather coat, and a small, brown teddy bear faux fur cape for extra warmth around the shoulders – something we’ve seen several examples of this season, by the way. Another take on outerwear was the equally long coat entirely in teddy bear fur in narrow black and brown panels. Both looks fit in well with classic surroundings of The Opera.
The black, quilted leather was taken in the sportier direction with a pair of bootcut hot-pants, paired with a thin white turtleneck. A really good look for the ‘no pants’ trend, if you’re not quite ready to wear tights and nothing else. A suit with a jacket and trousers in a light dove blue also struck the perfect balance between practical and decorative. With a wavy, oversize smocking on the front and back of the jacket, it was beautifully structured and transferred the various types of gatherings that appeared in other looks into a more solid textile.
All in all, it was a beautiful and complete collection for the woman who wants to feel feminine and attractive without being overly decorated. There are details without excess, and classic silhouettes with a twist. And, with a very, very full foyer in The Opera, the brand proves its great appeal. It is neither too much nor too little, and where the contrasts meet, they land in the nice sweet spot that has become theirs.
See a selection of the show looks below and see the entire collection here.