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COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK SS24, Modeuge

Ganni Girls in an AI World

Talking trees urged showgoers to contribute towards a better future dressed in metallic pink, silver and signature leopard print.
Talking trees urged showgoers to contribute towards a better future dressed in metallic pink, silver and signature leopard print.

Ganni, Thursday 10. August 2023 at 19.00 Øksnehallen

Inside Øksnehallen, an exhibition space in Copenhagen’s meatpacking district, stood a row of sky-high trees. Ganni had planted an indoor garden; a makeshift runway covered in the delicate shadow of the branches above. The sound of birdsong and summer wind reverberated around the room — before a chorus of bodiless, robotic voices that emanated from the trees welcomed the Ganni community to their seats. Designed by Copenhagen-based artist Cecilie Wagner Falkenstrøm, the AI trees noted the scepticism shared by many about the technology that created them but gently reminded the audience that “We come in peace.”

Ganni is widely recognised as a pioneer when it comes to sustainability within fashion — leading the charge by using increasingly innovative materials and offering transparency around its supply chain. The AI personas spoke of the “kinder, more thoughtful future” that the label is trying to shape: “It needs to be a brighter one”, they passionately remarked. After galvanising showgoers to continue caring for the planet, a new AI speaker announced model Paloma Elsesser’s return to a Ganni runway — having last walked for the brand in 2020.

A seasoned pro, Paloma commanded the catwalk in a maroon hooded dress and pants combo that she had designed herself. This season, the brand is expanding its range of sizing — and there’s no better muse to signify this shift than Paloma, who has championed inclusivity since the beginning of her career. She walked out to Alex Gaudino’s Destination Calabria: the SS24 soundtrack was compiled by AI, based on the music choices of Ganni’s followers. 

Lil Nas X’s Industry Baby transitioned into Nicki Minaj and Ice Spice’s Barbie World — a fitting song for a collection punctuated with pink. A pair of slouch-fit metallic pink pants and a party-ready T-shirt dress with a tassel hem were emblematic of Ganni’s proudly girly roots. Silver also took centre stage: a model that could double as Grace Jones stepped out in a glittering two-piece jacket and pants in the tone with complementary cowboy boots. Elsewhere, a sparkling denim mini was layered over a diaphanous shirt and midi skirt ensemble decorated with appliqué sequins. 

Overall, this was a texturally rich collection. Denim pieces were acid washed to look like they were covered in cloud formations while the delicate patterning of pointelle knit polo shirts and cardigans mimicked the natural formations of foliage. Black leather-effect dresses and jackets came with powerful, wide shoulders: a signature Ganni silhouette. Important to note, this was the first collection where no clothing or accessories were made from virgin leather. Again, Ganni continues to set new industry standards every season.

Another feat Ganni is known for is the label’s effortlessly cool collaborations. This time around, the brand joined forces with eyewear specialist Ace & Tate and debuted a second partnership with New Balance — proving that dadcore sneakers are ideal for dancing. The Ganni Bou Bag, which hit the runway last season, also made a comeback in new leopard print, dazzling silver and magenta iterations. 

For the finale, Daft Punk’s One More Time had audience members out of their seats. The models collectively made their way to the end of the catwalk where they danced in celebration. Ganni’s creative director, Ditte Reffstrup, came out to rapturous applause before she headed straight to the middle of the throng. From the show concept to the pieces themselves, the brand proved that harmony can be found where the natural world and the digital world intersect. After all, Ganni Girls also wanna have fun. 

See a selection of the show looks below and see the entire collection here