Deadwood, Thursday 10. August 2023 at 17.00 at Volume
Friends and Deadwood co-founders Carl Ollson and Felix von Bahder have long had a penchant for patchwork. So much so, the duo dressed their SS24 space with swathes of mismatched materials suspended from the ceiling. Textured cotton, lightweight indigo denim and fabrics swatches in various shades of brown served as a dramatic backdrop.
Just before the show started, a team member ran around the perimeter of the space, filling the venue with smoke. Once it had dispersed, the thunderous soundtrack kicked in — intense and unrelenting, the first model ominously walked into the centre. In an instant, the pace picked up: it was difficult to focus on each look, as the models stormed around the show space. Likely a concerted decision; the energy was ferocious and fevered.
Leather jackets pieced together from deadstock fabrics are elemental to Deadwood’s design DNA. Sand-coloured variations with eyelet-riddled belts were paired with knee-length leather shorts and trousers in the same hue tucked into all-terrain-ready boots. A black leather jacket with extreme capped shoulders and a curved hemline felt like it was straight from Janet Jackson’s 80s wardrobe in the best possible way.
Last season, the duo sought inspiration from the unpredictable nature of the Nordic landscape — think imposing mountain scapes and marine-rich coastlines. There was a palpable continuation of this energy in the air, as models’ heads were wrapped in fabric, as if they were gearing up to brace tempestuous climates à la the cast of Denis Villeneuve’s Dune (2021). The clothing was equally robust: a leather top and mini skirt and leather pants spliced along the front were structured and sultry. The most impactful look was, again, a leather dress with asymmetric lace-up detailing that exploded into a patchwork train at the back — a fitting finale for the brand. In essence, for SS24, Deadwood’s designers certified themselves as leather aficionados that will always bring an unapologetic edge to upcycling.
See a selection of the show looks below and see the entire collection here.