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COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK SS24, Modeuge

Stine Goya’s home is in the details

Stine Goya invited us home for today's SS24 show – home to herself as a Copenhagener and as a designer.
Stine Goya invited us home for today's SS24 show – home to herself as a Copenhagener and as a designer.

LÆS DEN DANSKE UDGAVE HER

Stine Goya, Wednesday 9. August 2023 at 16.00, Eckersbergsgade 4, 2100 Copenhagen

What is home? Is it a place? A person? A scent, an object, a feeling – an entire street? Maybe. In any case, it felt a lot like coming home this afternoon when Stine Goya held a show on her own street, Eckersberggade in the Kartoffelrrækkerne in Copenhagen. Home not only to Stine Goya herself, and her husband, the brand’s CEO, Thomas Hertz, but also to all of us for whom ‘home’ represents a small residential road, fluttering pine branches, the smell of summer rain and rose bushes crawling up from weather-worn bricks.

The show had an appropriate title ‘Homecoming’ and was centred around several long tables with beautifully arranged tableware (borrowed from the street’s own residents), fruit, vegetables, large pastel-coloured jelly creations and Georg Jensen napkins with the names of the aforementioned residents embroidered on them (and to which they are subsequently donated). In windows, in gardens, and on balconies, neighbours crowded together to catch a glimpse of the festivities. Too festive, it was, like one of those classic Danish street parties between neighbours that last well into the endlessly bright summer night – just with a hint of a very dressed-up guest list.

The collection itself featured a colour scale that went from bright pink, acid, to clear blue, mixed together with light pastels of both pink and blue and a saturated beige. As always, the garments offered an equally multi-coloured mix of materials including denim, leather, sequins, mesh, embroidery, pearls, stones, bows, ribbons, and whimsical touches such as patent leather pockets, unbuttoned backs, waists with elastic laces, large click buckles, free-hanging button bands. A lot is happening. A lot. And that can’t really surprise anyone when we’re talking about Goya. But I still think that when Stine Goya just speaks – or even whispers – instead of shouting, she is her very best version. Especially today.

I don’t know about you, but for me there was a time when her talent shone most clearly in exuberant silk prints. The ones that I’m sure many of us still have hanging in the wardrobe, like a little work of art that we can never part ways with. Those are her roots, but that’s not where Stine Goya makes her home today. Instead, her home is marked in the creations where colours, cuts, lacquer, and leather do not compete for attention, in the quieter styles where discreet details speak volumes. It’s in these details that we see Goya design with the core of her talent, where we truly see her the most.

Like a sky blue blazer with an open sleeve slit fastened with white freshwater pearls. A light cream waistcoat with embroidered flowers on the chest with the last string hanging back and fluttering in the wind like a marker line that ran wild. Like a transparent pink blouse with external seams that give the illusion of more defined shoulders. This is where we see Stine Goya; in the thoughtful, humble details, those which sometimes get lost in the crowd. You have to look closer, but when you finally notice, you truly see Stine Goya at home.

See a selection of the show looks below and see the entire collection here

This show review is translated from Danish to English by Sophie Axon.