No one tastes as fresh as Kernemilk
Marie Mark unfolded her universe in the brand's long-awaited show debut.LÆS DEN DANSKE UDGAVE HER
Kernemilk, Tuesday 8. August 2023 at 11.00, Fredericia Furniture
Let me start by saying how great it is that we have brands like Kernemilk. Even though Copenhagen Fashion Week’s show calendar offers a complex and well-composed arrangement as a whole, it is the small, quirky existences, like this brand, that brings a fresh aftertaste and tingle on the tongue. It feels invigorating, like something that makes you want to take another mouthful.
The Copenhagen-based brand, founded by Marie Mark in 2019, has in recent years managed to make a name for itself, especially among younger consumers with its 90s-inspired styles with the signature overlocked seams. And it’s not the first time that we get to know the universe at fashion week either – Kernemilk was on the calendar back in AW22 with an exhibition – but today the brand was to be put to the test as a debuting show brand. And what a debut!
Right under the roof at Fredericia Furniture, the brand unfolded itself, finally, so we could see what Kernemilk is really made of. There were components of both well-stitched denim, dark mesh, punk-pink cotton, embossed leather, short bomber jackets, micro-boleros, knee-high, striped leg warmers that curled down just the right leg-length, stiff denim galoshes with applied silver brooches. There were sequins, mini skirts and hot pants in all shades. Cords tied around the front, back, side and everywhere. Not everything was just in the closet, the collection worked in its entirety and in the effect of the shows diversity and refreshing energy of the models.
The first model on the catwalk wore a short, dark brown, ribbed bolero with a high neck and zip, underneath a deep blue top with criss-cross overlock stitching, and on the bottom a pair of transparent mesh capri pants with the illusion of a pair of black thongs – just a hint wider than a G-string – above. This detail was generally repeated throughout the collection above trousers, hot pants and leggings. In her hand she held a pink rose, which she caressed, touched, plucked leaves, and threw away, as she leisurely sauntered down the hallway while lovingly maintaining eye contact with the audience.
Next followed several garments in a deep blue material, which later transitioned into metallic grey, dark grey printed mesh that looked like crashing waves, dark brown and pink. And of course black, black, black.
It was as if Marie Mark had saved the best for last, for some of the latter looks were clearly the strongest; the ankle-length transparent black mesh dress with discreetly covered seams, high slit, bare back and hood was simple but oh so beautiful. Followed by several looks sewn in an indefinable dark purple palliet-studded net textile, which came in both a small top and in two skirts; one long and one short – very short. Together they concluded as the final entries of a slightly more elegant rounding-off, of the otherwise very raw attitude of the show and the brand.
With that said, the style is still young. Very young. But at the same time, the collection also seems to edge towards becoming more rounded. Not boring, not at all. Just a bit more confident; barely shouting and more talkative. And that’s okay. As long as Kernemilk stays fresh.
See a selection of the show looks below and see the entire collection here
This show review is translated from Danish to English by Sophie Axon.