1 showdebutant – og 3 der vendte tilbage

Forza Collective show they are a force to be reckoned with

Forza Collective, Monday, January 29, 2024 at 17.00, Designhuset Frederiksgade 1

It’s been quite a year for Forza Collective’s Kristoffer Kongshaug, what with a highly acclaimed capsule collection, a New Name of the Year gong at the Elle Awards and a place in the final three of the Wessel and Vett Fashion Prize. But today was the first runway show as part of Copenhagen Fashion Week which is nerve-wracking for anyone, though, as a seasoned designer with Dior and Raf Simons under his belt, Kongshaug probably took it in his stride. Despite its very short lifespan so far, the label has done a remarkable job in defining a signature aesthetic – a pared down, beautifully constructed mix of utility details and couture techniques – and so anticipation was high as we took out seats in an all-white gallery space where slowly building electronic music added a sense of drama.

Read the full review here.

Won Hundred: Expert denim for decades

Won Hundred, Monday, January 29, 2024 at 18.00, Pressen, Politikens Hus

There are few brands that can be considered luminaries of the Danish fashion scene, but for the last two decades, Won Hundred has cemented itself as an integral part of the country’s aesthetic identity. Master of clean silhouettes and able to have denim down to an art form, the brand took a hiatus from showing during Copenhagen Fashion Week — but 20 years in the game felt like a fitting milestone to make an outspoken comeback.

Staged at Politiken’s Pressen, a fitting location to share the news of a return, the label’s AW24 “SURRENDER” collection exemplified its core tropes while taking the brand in an increasingly ambitious direction. “For this season, we are igniting the very heart and soul of Won Hundred,” said Nikolaj Nielsen, Founder & Creative Director.

Read the full review here.

Mfpen gives classic tailoring a touch of mosh-pit energy

Mfpen, Wednesday, January 30, 2024 at 16.00, Galleri Nicolai Wallner

There has always been a certain duality at the core of mfpen’s appeal. There is a gentleness about the brand – from that lower case ‘m’, that whispers rather than shouts, to the understated design aesthetic – but always mixed with a tough element too: think heavy weight fabrics, thick soled shoes, and a certain confident swagger in everything they do. Showcasing the womenswear collection alongside menswear for the first time this season gave the perfect opportunity to drive home this dichotomy as fabrics and styles flip effortlessly across both men and women and styling touches undermined masculinity and femininity in turn.

Read the full review here.

Alt var langt og tyndt og cool hos Han Kjøbenhavn

Han Kjøbenhavn, torsdag den 1. februar 2024 klokken 18.00, Mineralvandsfabrikken

Med de sidste par års shows i Milano, hvor Han Kjøbenhavn for alvor har skruet op for niveauet og det avantgarde, kan man roligt sige, at mine forventninger var helt i top ved aftenens show. Og den præmis er måske ikke helt fair, men alligevel kunne jeg ikke lade være at være lidt undervældet, da showet var slut. Selvom det helt sikkert var et vildt show og ulig meget af det, vi ellers ser under Copenhagen Fashion Week.

Stemningen var tung og dyster i det store rå lokale i Mineralvandsfabrikken, hvor der spillede techno fra højtalerne, mens de mange sortklædte og solbrillebærende gæster fandt deres pladser. Det passede fint til modellerne, som kort efter kom ind næsten alle klædt i sort med få undtagelser af bordeaux, grå og hvid – og ligeledes mange med solbriller. Og det beviste tydeligt, at Han Kjøbenhavn er et brand med stærk tiltrækningskraft og mange dedikerede fans, der har et look, der er mindre dansk og langt mere internationalt.

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