Marimekko, Thursday, February 1, 2024, at 15.00, Sølvgade 48-50, 1307 Copenhagen K
Today, the glitterati nestled in a setting where a historical 1800s building merged with the later added extension in Danish modern concrete architectural style. Finnish design house Marimekko marked the 60th anniversary year for their celebrated floral print Unikko with a joyful AW24 collection at the National Gallery of Art in Copenhagen.
A festive celebration of colours and prints set the tone on the runway as Marimekko, with Rebecca Bay at the helm, explored the balance between their signature abstraction of the classic flower, and the monolithic architecture and materials that are associated with Nordic functionality.
Wearable layered knits were paired with black loafers and ankle revealing jeans. A nod to a whimsical school uniform both teacher and student. Meanwhile pleated skirts and dresses in muted blush tones revealed the print during movement.
Dark denim pieces with a lighter shade of print showcased unikko, and were paired in a new Nordic modern suit, while reflecting a utilitarian mood.
Looking to transform industry practices, Marimekko Maridenim was designed while following The Jeans Redesign guidelines by the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, developed with input from 80 experts across industry, academia, and NGOs. With minimal use of hardware, and by working with monomaterial cotton without stretch, 80 percent organic cotton and 20 percent recycled cotton. The wash, finish, and chemical use of the garments also follow the guidelines.
With nods to a reworked 90s fit in a new playful form, the collection echoed a bit of Marc Jacobs while simultaneously playing on the catalogue of prints and colour palette that is the Marimekko tradition, balancing Bay’s commercial skills with the Finnish heritage and future of the brand.