This show review was translated from Danish to English by Graham Addinall.
LÆS DEN DANSKE UDGAVE HER
Gestuz, Thursday, February 1, 2024, at 12.00, Refshalevej 167A, 1432 Copenhagen K
A raw hall on Refshaleøen was decorated with oversized disco balls in honor of the Gestuz woman and set the scene for a collection with a more nonchalant attitude than we’re used to from the brand: think Kate Moss in the 1990s with a nod to the 1970s and a mix between office and festive wear.
Of course there were suits, but this time, there was some playing with the silhouettes, so that the trousers were a little more tight and flared than before, for example in a chocolate brown set, where the trousers were paired with a slim-waisted blazer (incidentally, the same as the chief designer Sanne Sehested herself was wearing after the show). In general, the silhouettes were either very long or very short. A brief, boxy grey dress got a cool twist with the long leather gloves, which reappeared in several places in the collection, just as Gestuz tapped into the popular no pants trend with pearl-encrusted panties on the outside of tights with a knit or blazer.
The sexiness of the collection was not only expressed in the aforementioned missing trousers, but also in lots of lace and transparency – alone or combined with a 1970s-inspired faux fur, a long coat or just a single knit. At the opposite end of the spectrum, there was light denim with belt and lace detailing that gave it a vintage vibe.
Leather has always been an essential part of Gestuz’s DNA. One of the strongest looks this season was the open one worn by Klara Kristin: a chocolate brown leather set consisting of a men’s inspired oversized shirt with matching shorts. A red short leather jacket was paired with an almost sheer red dress, while a pair of slouchy, washed leather cargo pants were teamed with the collection’s only print, an abstract animal pattern. It was leather in abundance, and perhaps actually a little too much. Personally, I would really like to have replaced a few of the leather jackets with a few more coats, because these are a category that I think Gestuz really excels at.
The collection is sexier than what we have seen from Gestuz in several seasons. It is still for the power woman, but where she has been sharper in the past, this time she has let her hair down a little. Whether it will stick – we will find out next summer.
See a selection of the show looks below and see the entire collection here.