Long and lean and cool at Han Kjøbenhavn
With sportswear as a foundation, Han Kjøbenhavn has returned to Copenhagen with an international format and corresponding body ideals.This show review was translated from Danish to English.
LÆS DEN DANSKE UDGAVE HER
Han Kjøbenhavn, Thursday, February 1, 2024, at 18.00, Mineralvandsfabrikken, 1799 Copenhagen V
With the last couple of years’ shows in Milan, where Han Kjøbenhavn has truly amped up the level and the avant-garde, it’s fair to say my expectations were sky-high for tonight’s show. And perhaps that premise isn’t entirely fair, but still, I couldn’t help feeling a bit underwhelmed when the show ended. Although it was definitely a wild show and unlike much of what we see during Copenhagen Fashion Week.
The atmosphere was heavy and sombre in the large, raw space of the Mineral Water Factory, where techno music played from the speakers while the many guests clad in black and wearing sunglasses found their seats. This suited the models, who soon entered, almost all dressed in black with a few exceptions in burgundy, grey, and white – and likewise, many wearing sunglasses. It clearly demonstrated that Han Kjøbenhavn is a brand with strong appeal and many dedicated fans, possessing a look that is less Danish and far more international.
It was long, long, looong, and skinny. The gear, the hair, the styling, and the models. And it might just testify to the brand’s global perspective. While it’s become far more common and expected to have a diverse model cast back home, internationally, the ideal is still overwhelmingly long and super skinny. And when the styling also accentuates the slender frame of the models with long, high boots, extra-long sleeves, nearly ankle-length, sleek hair, then the skinniness just becomes striking. We’ve moved on from the ultra-thin being the only game in town, and we don’t need a show trying to glamorize it.
The collection focused on sportswear with hoodies, cycling shorts, bodystockings, and fleece tracksuits, which, if you stripped away the styling and showpieces, were clean and functional in their look. The numerous showpieces in the collection helped to create sculptural silhouettes with pronounced shoulder pads, long sleeves dragging on the ground, and a massive fur jacket in black and grey. While the clothing itself consisted of a lot of tight lycra in either full looks or tight bottoms paired with voluminous tops or vice versa for an accentuating effect.
The styling – crafted by chief designer Jannik Wikkelsøe Davidsen himself – was probably the most intriguing aspect of the show, where sunglasses and caps ensured that we didn’t catch a glimpse of the models’ eyes. The ultra-long hair served as accessories in its own right. On several neoprene items, the zipper was extra-long, extending further down than the actual garment, thereby emphasizing the flowing lengths that were a recurring theme throughout the collection. Thick silver chains fashioned into necklaces adorned many of the male models’ necks – and while the interpretation of this could undoubtedly veer into super-problematic territory, this time, I’ll give the benefit of the doubt to the brand.
Honestly, I’m not quite sure what I was expecting from this penultimate show of fashion week, so the fact I didn’t leave on a high note, I won’t hold against Han Kjøbenhavn. I’ll simply offer them a heartfelt welcome back to Copenhagen – they bring an element of international scale and raw coolness that we don’t see much of otherwise. And I’ll put forth a plea for a wider range in the models’ sizes next season, please.
See a selection of the show looks below and see the entire collection here.
