Helmstedt, Wednesday 2. February 2023 at 13.00

With colour running through her veins, Emilie Helmstedt is notorious for intersecting the whimsical world of art and fashion, and today she did exactly that. While it’s true that we should expect the unexpected when it comes to her design, there’s a growing sense of predictability. In other words, Helmstedt impresses with her confidence and creativity, and in doing so, she encourages philosophical thinking, infusing creativity into the monotonous nature of the everyday. And in our current climate of chaos, this bright, surrealist world is a breath of fresh air. 

Similarly to last season’s location, an excited flurry of guests took their step inside one of the Natural History Museum’s two-story rotundas, transcending into another dimension; of time and of space. The setting was intimate, and the masonic checkered floor and imposing arches created a feeling of closeness. Strong hues of pink, orange and blue coated the walls, painted by artist (and geologist) Per Kirkeby. Creating a connection between earth and the world that lies beyond, the oculus on the ceiling encouraged guests to look up into the sky. At this very moment, lights fluttered and a fractured voice spoke to us: “Time stands still, the world is still, and the colours are swirls. Purple, orange, red, mushrooms. Aliens have become normality.” 

The collection explored the extraterrestrial world through a multitude of spacey references. Tentacle-like swirls permeated the garments through threadwork, colourful ombres and sculptural silhouettes. Let’s not forget the tentacled alien gown, with a glistening sweeping trial. Alien heads were a more obvious link to the theme, but there were certainly stronger and more visually interesting references, such as hand-painted earth-like prints that permeated an array of styles from quilted puffer coats, slinky mini dresses and knitted tracksuit bottoms. As the collection progressed, prints and experimental silhouettes toyed with the concept of humans and aliens living together as one.

As the collection progressed, prints and experimental silhouettes toyed with the concept of humans and extraterrestrials living together as one on planet Helmstedt. Swirling prints of insects and fauna – two lifeforms that unify earth and other planets – were referenced throughout. Metal crowns and body pieces, created in collaboration with Danish brand Maanesten, also explored the idea of two universes coming together as one.

Rather unexpected was the monogrammed knitted two-piece, an arguably unnecessary addition to the collection, but perhaps a commercially-enticing ensemble and an interesting experiment for the young brand as they look to evolve in years to come. With that said, Helmstedt certainly has her finger on the pulse of Nordic creativity, and it’s clear she’s ready to take us on more journeys in the seasons to come.

See the entire collection here