COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK AW23
Stamm, Tuesday 31. January 2023 at 13.00
Lokomotivværkstedet is a unique location. Away from the hustle and bustle of the inner city, the venue is a grand warehouse-like structure. Exposed columns, ornate windows, and yards of floor space give it the appearance of a desolate building –– remote, removed and the ideal location to present a collection that endeavored to leave earthly attachments behind. At Elisabet Stamm’s creative workspace, a Grogu figure sits nestled in a corner –– sometimes, as a makeshift mannequin for the playful designer to dress as she pleases. Now, the otherworldly being has invaded her aesthetic direction. A hybrid alien figure –– part E.T., part Yoda –– presided over this season’s offering. First appearing on the show invite, the same motif traversed a screen suspended above the audience while the brand’s logo flashed up intermittently in orbit. Trance-like, meditative music reverberated across the space: a signal to show-goers that the STAMM AW23 collection was set to be out of this world.
The soundscape quickly shifted; discordant synth sounds straight from a video game heralded that the models had landed. The first walked out in a kilt-like skirt made from patchwork leather and suede; a satchel slung over his back with flowers erupting from it, like a peace offering from a friendly invader. The intricate leather fabric seemed to be a focal point of the collection: patchwork caps with buckle fastenings and shorts rendered from the same material were texturally inviting. Elsewhere, alchemical-style symbols were embellished onto oversized leather jackets and slouch-fit trousers.
Voluminous silhouettes are a hallmark element of Stamm’s design outlook. A rhinestone-embellished padded jacket echoed telescopic images of the night sky while longline belted puffer jackets in pristine cream were like a streetwear take on the signature Jedi uniform. However, form-fitting pieces were also in abundance: a mesh racer-inspired two-piece and a longline split-hem dress featured the same alien emblem. Trailing, diaphanous dresses in black and a sparkling nude chiffon were teamed with boxy, layered T-shirts to up the contrast. Similarly, a lightweight track jacket in acid green featured lace on the reverse while a plissé tracksuit included drawstring detailing around the elbows for a delicate finish. Most notable was a graphic-print T-shirt where Stamm’s alien made an appearance once more alongside the words: “The mind and the body are relaxed”. A fitting sentiment for a collection that transported the audience to a dream-like realm.
See the entire collection here