P.L.N., Tuesday 31. January 2023 at 17.00

A spectre traipsing alone in the darkness; a nude figure with a screaming, contorted face, in the midst of crucifixion. With the brand’s show teasers alone, a macabre mood was set. Show-goers arrived at the Bella Center and were instructed to their seats — the room was submerged in darkness, save for squares of dim light that interrupted the space. A delicate mist hung in the air, barely perceptible. The opposite side of the venue was difficult to decipher. The first indication that this collection was less about the individual garments and more about the overall ambiance: ominous and disturbed in nature.

Since the label’s beginnings, P.L.N.’s Creative Director Peter Lundvald Nielsen has designed in an experimental, intuitive manner. “Exploring a raw and uncompromising visual expression”, the brand’s ethos proudly states. The aesthetic direction was clear: Nielsen returned to paying homage to disparate subcultures to create a collection steeped in unbridled attitude.

Punk-ish fabric mohawks extended outwards from hoodies with extended sleeves and extreme zipper detailing. Elsewhere, two-piece structural tops and skirts dissolved into trailing threads at the hem. Grunge has always underpinned Nielsen’s aesthetic, so it was no surprise to see lashings of black and deep brown. A model in a cloak-turned-dress looked like a character from Assassins Creed, traversing the space with a disposition that was equal parts majestic and menacing.

In a similar vein to Comme des Garçon’s Chitose Abe this season, Nielsen incorporated hair-like detailing into several looks: extensions sprouted out of the sleeves of a peplum top, as a hair-based tie disrupted the surface of a denim shirt. Jeans and long shorts were dyed and distressed in typical P.L.N. fashion — androgynous and apocalyptic in style. Set to the disruptive, haunting sounds of Fetisch Park, the brand developed upon existing tropes to firmly establish its roots as a subversive mainstay that’s not afraid to addle the senses.

See the entire collection here