Deadwood show positive vibes in an upbeat show
This review is brought to you in collaboration with Bolou Fine Jewellery
Deadwood, Wednesday, August 7, 2024 at 11 AM, Slagtehusgade
The very troubled times we are currently living in have clearly struck a chord with many designers this week: do they offer escapism or a commentary? Can fashion reflect wider issues or is it a case of Nero fiddling as Rome burns? Swedish brand Deadwood have always had a strong moral and political sensibility, basing their whole business on repurposing and reworking dead stock and waste materials so for sure we expected some acknowledgement of the current state of the world in their show today. In past seasons their collections have displayed a powerful creative energy but in a post-apocalyptic, Mad Max fashion that made one think the owners, Carl Ollson and Felix von Bahder were anything but positive about the future. Somehow though, in today’s anxious world, they now seem to see glimpses of hope.
Inspiration for the collection came from the notorious Kowloon Walled City – also known as The City of Darkness – which was a grim labyrinth of desperately poor residential buildings but whose residents became renowned for fighting back against deprivation and finding beauty and creativity in the most difficult of circumstances. For a brand with whose whole ethos is based on resurrection, the synergy was perfect. The theme was reflected in the staging of the presentation which took place in a narrow street in an old industrial area with red lampshades hung the length of the runway – a subtle and contemporary nod to Hong Kong markets. But the change in attitude of Deadwood was apparent the moment the show started. This time there was no thrash metal soundtrack or smoke machines evoking the last days of civilisation, rather acoustic tracks and bouncy indy music that gave the models a spring in their step.
Naturally leather (both recycled and vegan – this time made from residues from tea production) played a very large part in the collection as it usually does. But the heavy biker jackets and lace up pants were accompanied by sportier styles that had a lightness of touch: a track suit in sage green and cream was a particular highlight as was a halter neck jumpsuit. Very lightweight technical nylon in pale green contrasted beautifully with the heavier pieces when fashioned into full origami skirts or a very covetable draw-waisted hoodie and made sexy when in a laced up slinky dress. Flashes of imperial red appeared throughout the collection in closures on a nylon coat, in the insoles of shoes and as knee socks whilst another nod to Hong Kong came in the tie closures traditionally seen on Asian workwear but here scattered all over a tailored coat. And if one outfit captured a definite brightening in mood for Deadwood, it was the hoodie worn over a vintage sweatshirt depicting a very chipper looking Mickey Mouse – surely the most upbeat cartoon character ever. After this confident, well paced and even charming show, these guys most definitely have reason to be optimistic about their future at least.
See a selection of the show looks below and see the entire collection here.
