Herskind presents a lesson in fashion history
This review is brought to you in collaboration with Bolou Fine Jewellery
Herskind, Wednesday, August 7, 2024 at 10 AM, Øksnehallen
Some say Romans invented roads, the trusty cobbled paths that lead us to a destination. This morning, Herskind invited showgoers to walk back in time, down the historic cobbles of Copenhagen’s brown part of the Meatpacking district into a former market hall, to present their latest sartorial offering for SS25. Upon entrance, there was an instant dichotomy between the past and present, a theme that transpired throughout with a Romanesque and medieval quality. Geometric stone tiles, robust metal pillars, wooden panels lacquered in white paint and a tall vaulted ceiling. A simple fixture of semi-transparent white sheets divided the space which, I believe, symbolically represents a clean slate for the brand. White lights filled the space and disembodied chimes echoed through the space, the show had begun.
For a brand rooted in modernity, Herskind surprised with a fierce lesson in fashion history, by reinventing antiquity through a celebration of womanhood. The show began with an immaculate presentation of tonal grey in a variety of materials that recurred throughout. Luxurious fabrics from Italy and France were presented throughout, meticulously crafted to accentuate the waist and and celebrate the female form. Fluid silk and soft knits were seemingly reminiscent of marble statues. With that said, Herskind retains a sense of androgyny through large shirts with oversized cuffs and bespoke cufflinks, waistcoats and pleated pants with press folds, as seen in medieval fashion. For Herskind, tailoring is female armour.
The lesson in fashion history continued and our eyes were drawn away from the garments to a metal chainmail headpiece and recurring hair braids. If the connection to history wasn’t obvious before, it certainly was now. The garments presented an evolution of character, progressing from light to dark in a rainbow of neutral hues from white, cream, khaki, toffee, brown to black. Characteristic of Herskind’s contemporary ethos, sequins recurred as an ode to the modern women, reminding her embrace self-expression. The feminist spirit was palpable. Beyond the historic references, the versatile collection caters for the modern woman.
“Birgitte Herskind” was once undoubtedly feminine; flirty, floral and frilly. Today we got to know the new and improved “Herskind”, whose persona is confident, intelligent and undeniably chic. The narrative was clear, as is the brand’s direction.
See a selection of the show looks below and see the entire collection here.
