Martin Asbjørn’s modern material girls at Remain
This review is brought to you in collaboration with Bolou Fine Jewellery
Remain, Tuesday, August 6, 2024 at 6 PM, Tap1
The designer’s sophomore solo collection looked to 80s fitness fanatics and 90s chic to engender the “contemporary heroine”, who’s intent on reclaiming the feminine form.
“Daddy, daddy. It was just like you said,” a disembodied voice remarked, reverberating around the purpose-built white space inside the event venue Tap1. Laurie Andersen’s Speak My Language boomed over the speaker: a pointed choice for a collection set to ooze power and female dominance.
Last season, Asbjørn’s debut solo collection was centred around the “discerning Remain woman”, who preferred intricate lace and bodice-like tops. For SS25, the “contemporary heroine” emerged — a fusion of defining feminine tropes from the 80s and 90s. An ode to the fitness-focused era came in the form of basketball-style mesh shorts and a matching vest top layered over a diaphanous grey blouse and skirt.
As for the 90s, a period synonymous with slip dresses, cigarettes and clasp bags (the latter of which were in abundance), Asbjørn wanted to channel the “body-centric” attitude of the time. There were Carrie Bradshaw-worthy blazer dresses that skimmed the thighs and lightweight racer-back knit vests that felt both sultry and sophisticated. The standout piece was a burgundy fur-like patchwork coat with subtle zip detailing — made for a spontaneous night out in Manhattan. In terms of the overall ambience, models walked the space at a slower pace than usual; although some audience members were disgruntled with the tempo, this felt like a considered choice from the Remain team. Asbjørn’s women were dressed in pieces that are designed to demand attention, after all, so every sensuous second counted.
See a selection of the show looks below and see the entire collection here.
