(di)vision Returns: Less storytelling, same strong identity
This review is brought to you in collaboration with Bolou Fine Jewellery
READ THE ORIGINAL VERSION IN DANISH HERE.
(di)vision, Tuesday, August 6, 2024 at 7 PM, Bryggervangen
“They’re back,” was my first thought as Nina Marker, a regular fixture in a (di)vision show, purposefully strode down the catwalk wearing a leather jacket with the characteristic split zipper down the back. (di)vision has been absent from the show calendar for two seasons, so starting with such a typical look for the brand was a smart move.
It was clear that many had missed having (di)vision on the show calendar, as seats were highly sought after, and everyone was packed closely together, not wanting to miss the comeback we were about to witness. Previous shows from them have been quite legendary: the meeting of aliens and rednecks at the Planetarium, Woodstock hippies in the birch forest, and especially the afterparty at Josty. (di)vision is usually a guarantee for thorough storytelling, so that’s naturally what I expected from their return to the show calendar.
Unfortunately, the narrative wasn’t as piercing this time as we have come to expect. Instead, the more anonymous, raw warehouse setting of the show allowed the collection to stand out and speak for itself. And it did, with plenty of (di)vision classics like zippers down the middle of the back, patchwork, low-rise jeans, and deadstock jackets. But the story remained somewhat unresolved.
There was also something that could become a new hallmark for the brand: layers (and layers) of boxer shorts and hoodies, which added extra edges to hoods, waistbands, and sleeves, as if you had worn two identical pieces in different colours. A simple yet effective touch that added something extra to otherwise standard styles. The extra layers were also present at the ends of many sleeves, adding to the slightly sloppy styling that (di)vision masters, where everything just seems effortlessly cool and casual.
Personally, I really like it when (di)vision veers towards a more adorned and romantic direction, and that need was met with the addition of lace to the collection, something we haven’t seen from the brand before. It became particularly romantic in a dress with lots of ruffles, uneven lengths, and patchwork of white lace in different patterns, resembling a rock ‘n’ roll (di)vision bride. And it was simply lovely as sewn-on lace sleeves on a cycling top and ruffles peeking out from shirt sleeves.
The mix of materials and deadstock clothing is something (di)vision should definitely hold on to. Whether it’s a complete outfit made entirely of tank tops or a pair of overalls with slits up the legs and panels of black lace inserted, it underscores the brand’s DNA, which has always mixed and matched materials, colours, and styles. Their commitment to using deadstock and preserving features from the original clothing reflects a strong belief that this is the right path. Even on a coat covered with North Face logos, their aesthetic shines through, leaving no doubt that this is a (di)vision coat.
Although the narrative wasn’t as clear – aside from the collaboration with skincare brand The Ordinary, which was reflected in sewn-on creams and a mini dress made of serum boxes – I was taken back to my early teenage years, which coincided with those of founders Simon and Nanna Wick. The soundtrack (‘All the Things She Said’ by t.A.T.u.), the Pokémon print on trousers, the Avril Lavigne punk styling with attached fox tails and side partings pulled far over, and the teddy bears hanging on bags and piled onto a full coat. I missed the cohesive universe around the collection, which I know they can deliver, but I was still left with a teenage bedroom vibe that will likely hit a tender and nostalgic spot for many of the brand’s followers.
This review has been translated using ChatGPT.
See a selection of the show looks below and see the entire collection here.
