Alectra Rothschild/Masculina proved that when something works, stick with it
This review is brought to you in collaboration with Bolou Fine Jewellery
READ THE ORIGINAL VERSION IN DANISH HERE.
Alectra Rothschild/Masculina, Monday, August 5, 2024 at 6 PM, Hangaren
With a collection titled “You are wasted here, you are a star,” it was no surprise that its presentation was a celebration and tribute to trans identities – particularly when it comes from Alectra Rothschild/Masculina. And it was indeed a celebration – just like the brand’s winter show debut.
As with many niche brands – which Alectra Rothschild/Masculina undoubtedly is – it might be a bit challenging to spot significant differences from collection to collection or show to show. The essence of a niche is precisely that you operate within a narrow field. Even though the setting was new this time – the show moved outdoors to the expansive, raw space in front of Hangaren at Refshaleøen – the setup remained much the same: same DJ, same (partially) model cast, same performance… but also the same euphoric energy burst and utterly fantastic show.
And that’s the thing with this industry: we’re unfortunately conditioned to crave something new, new, new all the time, but at the final show of the day, we were reminded that if something works, there’s no need to change it. Especially with a brand like Alectra Rothschild’s, which, compared to everything else on the fashion week calendar, is genuinely new, new, new! It’s a pleasure to see a brand so true to itself and its community, where there are certainly no commercial compromises at play. If you’re creating garments from homemade latex (yes, homemade), it’s certainly not to milk any cash cow but to create exactly that piece of clothing for the person it will fit perfectly.
As I wrote in my review of the debut show, Alectra Rothschild/Masculina’s clothes are not for everyone. And they are not for everything. They are performance wear with frills, latex, fringes, and very little left to the imagination. They are clothes that empower the wearer, and this was demonstrated in the strongest possible way. Because if you don’t feel powerful arriving on the back of a motorbike dressed in a frilled jacket, panties, and stilettos – and nothing else – then I don’t know what it takes. Yes, it also takes courage to don much of the collection, but perhaps the clothes can provide that courage if you dare to embrace it.
The collection draws inspiration from the French-Russian artist Erté and the boudoir of the 1920s, exploring intimacy through nightgowns and capes. This was evident in corsets, skirts, and frilled sleeves, and in the numerous laces – deadstock from Belgian Fabrics – that appeared on capes and dresses. These rather romantic references were countered by “leather” (the vegan Oleatex), latex, and ripped denim, creating a truly delightful fusion of masculine and feminine codes. And there’s no doubt that when she can craft such well-fitting corsets for such diverse bodies, Alectra Rothschild knows exactly what she’s doing when it comes to tailoring and cut.
Alectra Rothschild adds something utterly fantastic to the Danish fashion scene, something we might not have known we were missing, but now that we have it, we would never want to be without it again.
This review has been translated using ChatGPT.
See a selection of the show looks below and see the entire collection here.
