Stine Goya gave her best collection to date

This show review was translated from Danish to English by Graham Addinall.

LÆS DEN DANSKE UDGAVE HER

Stine Goya, Wednesday, January 30, 2024 at 17.00, Amaliegade 42, 1256 Copenhagen K

Where designers typically look out into the world for inspiration, this season Stine Goya had once again chosen to look more inward and be inspired by her immediate surroundings. Where last season she invited us to a show in the street where she lives, today we were invited inside the head office in Amaliegade. This not only served as a backdrop for the show, but was also part of the collection itself, as a beautifully painted print of the showroom in abstract colours or the opening dress with a hand-painted print of the office staircase.

There was a calm about the new autumn collection which suits the brand. Where Goya has previously used harsher colours, such as lime green, she is back in gentler shades. We saw a delicate pink dress with a hand-drawn poppy and a coat in the same shade with removable metal ‘hardware’ that both closed and bejewelled. Taupe was another consistent colour, as part of a print but also alone in a subdued sequinned jacket and in the jacquard jacket that has become a classic at Stine Goya. In the darker color spectrum was a red leather-like coat, with square buckles, that was equal parts cool and elegant whilst elsewhere individual black elements gave some nice breaks, where the silhouettes stood out clearly.

The collection also contained many deconstructed elements that functioned as another way of inviting us into the details. In a pin-striped skirt they allowed a floral print to peek out and a slanted slit in a checkered knit gave a glimpse of the waistband.  She also, for the first time, chose to add light denim to the collection, where a skirt with snaps over a pair of trousers and a jacket with a wide belt was the brand’s take on ‘the Canadian tuxedo’.

Accessories take up more and more space in Goya’s collection. This season, the focus was on ballerina shoes and slouchy boots with kitten heels – both with glitter or studs. Bags in apple leather in various sizes with Goya’s S monogram either as a handle or decoration all helped to give the collection a fully cast expression.The collection had been given the title ‘Art.Work’, which refers to the collaboration with the artist David Risley, who was also among the guests. The artist had painted portraits of both Stine Goya and several of her employees, and these not only appeared on a dress in the collection, but together with a manifesto written by herself, adorned the walls around us. And when she finally came out for the show’s finale surrounded by her team, she emphasised that creating a successful show is a group effort. This was not just a kind gesture but also gave the brand authenticity. Stine Goya has really come home.

See a selection of the show looks below and see the entire collection here.

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