Full of flavour, textural universes collided at Henrik Vibskov
Henrik Vibskov, Wednesday, January 30, 2024, at 18.00, Øksnehallen
Last season, Vibskov invited his audience for a round of gentle boxing — complete with a vibrant orange ring demarcated by rows of billowing fabric. Ethereal reels of material were back for SS24, this time attached to cubicle doors. The boxes punctuated the space, glowing with red light to illuminate the darkly lit space. Cowboy pop transitioned into a dramatic saxophone-led soundtrack as dancers dressed in flowing Wee Willie Winkie-style nightdresses crept out of the cubicles and pulled the window features apart — leaving a stream of bubblegum pink mesh behind them. “Daily chewing gum therapy” read the show invite; perhaps, this is where Vibskov’s mind wanders in moments of candy-fueled creativity.
Models traipsed around the space in an irregular snake-like formation. Brocade jackets in an abstract camo pattern with hints of pink were the first looks, followed by outfits typical of Vibskov’s oeuvre. Clashing patterns were expected: a polka dot two-piece was teamed with a traditional, thick check coat while skin-tight jersey leggings were styled with diaphanous trousers in fluid organza. Belted and form-fitting dresses were made unconventional with the addition of MDF collars and tutu constructions that protruded outwards from the waist. Elsewhere, multicoloured knits were layered over denim jackets decorated with sketches-turned-embroidered motifs.
Whimsically odd, the beauty choices fed into the overall aesthetic. Dishevelled hair and extreme quiffs were reminiscent of Miu Miu’s unkempt vibe for AW23. Bedhead waves were tucked under flat caps and one model even sported cloudy blue contact lenses, and all-over face and neck tattoos. A rogue bunch from another realm was the feeling — one where multifarious textures, patterns and prints are the markers of irrefutable taste.
See a selection of the show looks below and see the entire collection here.
