Put a bow on it

There were bows here, there and everywhere at today's The Garment show, which showed a somewhat more bohemian side of the still-young brand.

LÆS DEN DANSKE UDGAVE HER

The Garment, Wednesday 9. August 2023 at 12.00 in Thorvaldsens Museum

It almost can’t help but be good when you mix Sophia Roe’s characteristic monochrome style – which, by the way, has secured her more than 500,000 followers on Instagram – and Charlotte Eskildsen’s experienced eye and confident streak which has led Designers Remix steadily through more than 20 years of ups and downs in the fashion industry. And it has undeniably been good since the two creative master minds put their heads together under the name The Garment in 2020. But is it more than that? Does it have an edge? Depth? A clear vision at a time when the industry – indeed the whole world – does not need new clothes and new collaborations?

I hoped to finally find out today, when the now three-year-old brand was once again on the official show calendar to show its SS24 collection. In the always wonderful setting of Thorvaldsens Museum, The Garment showed a collection that was primarily filled with bows. Bows both at the back and at the front of ballerina shoes. Tied on the models’ backs. On shoulders, on buttocks, as closures on skirts, at the waist, over the chest, as brooches. Yes, everywhere. The slightly girly feminine look has always been their aesthetic compassthough it has previously been through brilliant (I think at least) reimaginings of a suit – think of the beautiful asymmetric waistcoats, short semi-pleated skirts and dressy blazers – this time it was in a somewhat more bohemian collection than we’ve seen so far from the pair.

We already saw a bit of it last summer during SS23 fashion week, but this time the style was turned up even more with more loose dresses and trousers, often with broderie anglaise, in off-white cotton poplin. Little delicate dresses again with embroidered edges, a loose dove blue A-line coat, a crochet sleeveless top in light beige, a long balloon dress with thin straps in off-white, a striped pyjama set in white and beige with a thin light brown knit thrown over the shoulders . All styled with large necklaces with leather cord and chunky pendants in stone or glass.

And it was also really nice and beautiful – but at times you were honestly in complete doubt as to whether you had taken the wrong turn and ended up at Skall Studio instead. And it’s a shame when each of them is doing so well within their own area.

Today’s strongest looks, in my opinion, were also those that were clearly The Garment, as we saw it in the first collections – and I’m sure I wasn’t the only one who welcomed them back in 2020. It was, for example, a set of black, wide-legged and completely low-rise suit trousers with a cropped waist and, of course, a big bow at the back styled with a layered white oversized lace collar worn as a crop top of sorts. Or the suit consisting of a chalk-white, transparent and low-waisted skirt with a lace edge added to a wide, black and short blazer with heavy white stitching. We also saw a nice new take on the long, narrow knit dress, which has been ubiquitous in recent seasons: this time in black with heavy lace edging, a deep neckline and discreet wavy collar. The long black dress in crisp black cotton poplin with wide, gathered shoulder straps and a large white bow at the bottom of the plunging back was also really nice and elegant. So, did I become wiser today? Learn more about how Sophia Roe and Charlotte Eskildsen will use this match made in heaven and enormous potential in their joint project going forward? Not really. Not because doubts have been cast about either their good taste or abilities, but more because I find it difficult to decipher which direction, they are heading in. Where they really want to go. But one thing is for sure, I’m looking forward to following along.

See a selection of the show looks below and see the entire collection here.