OpéraSport returned to their original starting point – and it suited them

Under open skies and in light rain, OpéraSport showed their SS24 collection earlier today. The collection took us back to the brand's beginnings and showed lots of skin, new ideas and, not to forget more accessories.

LÆS DEN DANSKE UDGAVE HER

OpéraSport, Wednesday 9. August 2023 at 11.00 by the National Gallery of Denmark

If you were lucky, you were sheltered from the rain under the treetops when OpéraSport held its third show in the park behind the Statens Museum for Art. It was a beautiful venue, and you could easily imagine how amazing it would have been if it had been a warm and sunny August day, which we so expected to have during summer fashion week: but not this time. On the other hand, the location helped to emphasise that the women behind it, Stephanie Gundelach and Awa Malina Stelter, had been inspired by nature for the collection’s colours and silhouettes this season.

It’s no secret that while I’ve always liked the brand and the philosophy behind it, I wasn’t super excited about last season’s show, where the collection had, for my taste, become a little too carried away in the Y2K wave that had washed over parts of the fashion industry (and is still rolling). So, it was also positive to see that this collection was cut to the bone, the Y2K details less significant and that the brand had, to a greater extent, found its way back to the original starting point, namely the contrasts between the practical and femininely sexy – like the balance between opera and sport.

Recycled silk, which has become part of the brand’s DNA, came this season, among other things, in the form of a long citrus yellow dress, where three knots created an almost rosette-like effect that gave edge to the otherwise simple dress. That, along with a black and light blue dress with ruching details, were among the collection’s highlights.

Sheer floral prints in both red and blue recycled polyester were new and added a bit of extra sexiness to the collection, as did the monogrammed bomber jacket in vegan leather. Of course, there were also many of the brand’s signature styles – the popular swimwear, the dress with an asymmetric closure (this time with buttons instead of ties), the little ribbed blouse and denim.

The collection also featured a collaboration with artist Amalie Cecilie, whose painting had been transformed into the collection’s only full print and which came in both a dress and a pair of unisex shorts – shown on a male model to emphasize the point.

With the SS24 collection, OpéraSport also tried their hand at accessories: their already very popular wrinkled silk bag was joined by some larger 1990s-inspired bags made from apple waste. In addition, the brand had also created a small shoe collection in collaboration with The Garment Project consisting of a high and a flat sandal together with a pair of loafers.

Recently, Rudolph Care launched its new makeup line – admittedly limited to just a few products – but as the makeup brand behind the show’s look, it worked convincingly, because the natural glow and the subdued look that key makeup artist Anne Staunsager had created matched the feeling of the show perfectly.

OpéraSport has its clear DNA, and it was good to see that the brand had come up with this again – it suited them. When it comes to the show format, there is still a bit missing in the storytelling before OpéraSport hits the nail on the head, but I think to a large extent that they are going the right way and are constantly doing better – and that is also important to remember, in the comparison, that it is still a young brand.

See a selection of the show looks below and see the entire collection here.