The anatomy of Marimekko
This review is brought to you in collaboration with Bolou Fine Jewellery.
Marimekko, Thursday, August 8, 2024 at 3 PM, Operaparken
Floral motifs have saturated the runways this season, leaving some to wonder if the trend has reached its peak. Despite the speculation, Marimekko was one of the first contemporary Nordic brands to transform florals into an enduring fashion staple, and they continue to do so today. Under the rainy skies of Copenhagen, the models were like a bouquet, being nourished by the gentle rain from above. Energetic techno beats, understated production, and laid-back styling (notably long white socks tucked into Asics trainers) contributed to a successful celebration of Finnish culture – its nature and its people.
When the brand was founded in 1951, Armi Ratia famously believed that the true essence of a flower could not be captured in design. In response, designer Maija Isola boldly crafted an entire series of abstract floral prints, including the iconic Unikko, which has since become a visual hallmark for the Finnish lifestyle brand. It was no surprise, then, to see Unikko featured prominently in the SS25 collection.
Unikko appeared in a variety of forms including airy A-line mini dresses, robust denim shirts, low slung denim capri shorts, flowing midi dresses with voluminous raglan sleeves and detailed spring jackets. True to Marimekko’s signature style, the print was drenched in vibrant hues — rosy reds, tiger lily oranges, and soft aqua blues — complemented by the unexpected addition of muted neutrals, earthy browns and faded blacks. Stripes also appeared in excess from the classic Jokapoika to a thicker print which, in many ways, felt more contemporary. Showgoers lifted their phones to capture the classics, rather than the new, unfamiliar prints. Perhaps we should ask ourselves why. With Marimekko’s long standing heritage, the visual showcase of its history was to be expected. Afterall, comfort is often found in familiarity.
The collection also features a capsule collection showcasing four exclusive artworks by London-based artist Petra Börner, whose works have been translated into pieces of wearable art at Marimekko’s own textile printing factory in Helsinki. Upon first glance, the new prints demonstrated heightened femininity with delicate lines and softer hues, some even felt anthropomorphic. With that said, the iconic Unikko print exists because Maija Isola was granted the opportunity to showcase her work, so who knows if Petra Börner’s prints will represent the next chapter for Marimekko.
See a selection of the show looks below and see the entire collection here.
